Some Miscellaneous Commentary
(note: you can peruse photos from this trip at Ecuador BirdTrek 2022)
Neotropical Birding
Jon Dunn, in his recent book about hummingbirds, The Glitter In the Green, observed that “birders, in the neotropics, suffer for their birds and see them only fleetingly.” This trip exemplified that sentiment.
I noted earlier our “3,2,1,1” formula for many of the trip’s target species: drive three hours, hike two miles, stand for one hour, see one bird. More often than not, the formula was successful, although personally I would have sacrificed a rarity or two for more and better looks at different birds.
But Dunn is correct, even where birds are numerous, such as when you come across a mixed flock of tanagers, sightings are difficult. And photography is always challenging, given dark forests, thick vegetation, and, often, rain. Even at lodge hummingbird feeders.
A Mixed Batch of Hummingbirds
Ecuadorians
Most people, even in the remote villages, stayed masked – the people do not appear to have been politically bullied into resisting intelligent precautions.
In the U.S. a gaggle of birders on a roadside may draw honks of derision or at best looks of bewilderment. Ecuadorians almost always offered a friendly wave or toot of the horn.
Staff at all the lodges were unfailingly pleasant, friendly, and happy; laughter from the kitchen was a constant at every lodge. Maybe they were laughing about the crazy gringo birdwatchers, but I don't think so.
Something you probably won't see in the States: pig butchering takes place in the street (right across from the restaurant where we had lunch).
"Your chops will be ready soon."
Architecture in most towns is a combination of early concrete block façade and unfinished top floors serving as clothes dryers.
And Curtis noticed that it appeared every single house and phone had its own separate wire.
"Phone's out? Good luck!"
Ecuador is big on statues; at most entrances to towns a local or historic hero is proudly honored. And even on a remote bridge near the border with Peru an Incan warrior rides a giant toucan.
Chicken Tragedy
I forgot to mention the Great Chicken Tragedy. While waiting for Chestnut-collared Swallows to return to their nests glued under the eaves of the Sozoranga Police station, our attention was drawn to the spirited volleyball game in the station yard and then to an unfolding tragedy in the back yard. A puppy, having fun catching and throwing around a chicken, went too far and the chicken expired. We, of course, were rooting for the chicken, but were also concerned about the fate of the puppy when the station manager, whose chickens we presume they were, discovered the felony.
Evening volleyball games were common, and often in the yard of the local police station.
Environmental
Much is written and studied about the impact of forest clearing, agriculture, and other development activities on many sensitive bird species, and several of the birds we saw are considered threatened or endangered as a result. The term “banana republic” is pretty apt here, because of the mile after mile of banana plantations and the purported political corruption. The U.S., of course, does not have banana trees.
Banana Trees
Recently, like latter-day Spanish conquistadors, Chinese and other business interests have invaded Ecuador to plunder its gold. This time the human toll is less (we hope), but the environmental impacts are far greater.
Gold Mining on Rio Nangartiza
Overall, of course, the countryside and particularly the high Andes are beautiful and often breathtaking – almost literally. As when driving along a twisty cliffside dirt road with a vertical drop of about 1000 feet, no railing, and the thought occurs: what if a tire blows out?
But here's a few views.
The Paramo Habitat of the Blue-throated Hillstar
Your Happy Birder/Photographer Atop Cerro Toledo
That's all for now, I'll post further if I come across any special photos or memories. Thanks for coming along and I hope you enjoyed the trip. I did!
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